So i was wondering if someone could give me a hand. I'm trying to connect my mister to a strange HD CRT tv that happens to have a VGA input. The TV upscales all 240p signals into 480i but does handle 480i and 480p natively. The vga port on the TV can supposedly do ypbpr or rgbhv. I've been able to get component ypbpr working by scan doubling to 480p and turning the sync on green switch on but when I turn ypbpr off in the mister ini (which I think is how you tell it to output rgbhv) I get a pink screen whether the sync on green switch is on or off. Sorry i know this is a wierd one but any help would be appreciated. Also maybe unrelated but I can't see my scripts so I have to keep taking the SD card in and out and doing it on the computer.

It sure is nice to have good representation of the hardware needed to play retro games. But how about actually keeping game development going? Have there been any talk about making "Development kit" cores? There are quite a few people with official kit's out there. It should be possible to recreate them for the MiSTer.

If people are afraid that the companies will do something about it, then there is always the option to "hack" the ordinary consoles (cores). Many smaller developer's did it back in the day, when they could not afford the official development kit's...

It is out of stock on misteraddson, not sure when it will be available… where else can I buy a Mistercade?

I just have a DE-10 Nano, 128mb memory and a little USB hub from amazon coming out of the micro usb slot and I'm so happy with everything it can do. I saw a Jeff Gerstmann video where he's using the MT32 hat to play X68000 with amazing sound. I was like wow I want that!So I found the MiSTer MT32-Pi Hat v2.1 for £30 and put it in my basket. But you need an I/O board to plug it into. After hours of research I decided OK, digital it is because I need a second memory expansion to get better timing on PS1 and Saturn (+£35 and +£20). Oh and the X68000 should probably have a real time clock (+£17).

I also saw repeatedly in the I/O board threads that if you don't use the USB board instead of a cheap hub that you are a horrible monster, that the power switch on the digital IO doesn't work without it. (+£32!!!!). I thought that as I was this deep in I might as well get a Snac with the NES and SNES headers to bring some more functionality. (+£33) and a case, because I had never had a case as they only seem to do them for systems that have both extra boards (+£23) which I don't even like as acrylic isn't great, but the nice metal ones are £130 and don't acommodate digital.

I was about to check out my basket now at £190 ($233 ) and was ashamed considering my system that I initially put together was £150 for the facility of playing all those consoles; and now it would be a £340 system that is 5 times bigger and all it can really do extra is tell the time and play some nicer music in like 5 games. So I dumped everything out of the cart and am having a big think. This is why my brain can't let me have nice things.

So currently, I've got an AV Famicom and Super Famicom (among other systems) that I run through a Retrotink 5x Pro on a 1440p computer monitor as well as capturing through a second Retrotink 5x on an Elgato HD60S+. I'm using two Retrotinks because I want to run scanlines on my computer monitor while I play, while the second Retrotink upscales to 1080p for live streaming/recording without scanlines.

I'm wanting to simplify how much stuff I've got on the shelf and use the MiSTer instead of the original hardware, so I'm trying to figure out exactly which components I'd need. I've got a DE-10 coming in the mail shortly, but nothing else has been purchased.

I'm leaning towards the analog I/O board so I can easily connect the analog video out to the Retrotink I use for my monitor (let the Retrotink handle scanlines). Also, this allows me to easily change to a CRT someday later if I want to not use my 1440p PC monitor anymore. I'm curious about the digital I/O, but I'm afraid that might make things more complicated in my case. I guess some people are using random HDMI>VGA>component cable setups or possibly just using an HDMI splitter from the main HDMI output?

I assume I should get the USB add-on board. I know some people just hook up a USB hub like you'd use on a computer, but I'm not sure exactly what my USB needs are yet. I feel like I won't be connecting many USB devices, but maybe I'm wrong? Right now, I'm mostly imagining maybe a 8bitDo wireless receiver (for 8bitdo SNES gamepad) and the periodic USB keyboard connection. I'd probably wire it up via ethernet, so I'm not sure if I really need a wifi or bluetooth USB dongle.

RAM - seems like 1 stick is probably good enough for me (I guess). Probably would just occasionally mess around with PS1 and not sure if I'd touch Sega Saturn. Who knows, maybe they'd ultimately run fine on 1 stick anyway.

Do you guys think I'm missing anything? I'm not exactly sure if my use case requires a pretty basic set of parts or if I need to splurge on all kinds of stuff. I liked the sound of the Ironclad Plus, but the lack of availability and, to some extent, the price have been making me consider other options. On the other hand, having the smaller form factor MiSTer does seem pretty appealing as well.

I've googled around and haven't been able to find a solution for this.

When I play a new arcade core, I have to set up all the controls; it does remember them the next time I play that core. I'd like to know if there is a way to set up the controller so that, at least for basics like direction, fire, start and coin, I don't have to set the controls for new cores?

Hey all

Recently joined the MiSTer family and loving it so far. However I'm a bit confused how to play via Bluetooth on my DS4 controller. First I ordered a 8bitdo wireless adapter V2 but afterwards I read that this is not an advised approach due to the extra layer 8bitdo is using to communicate with the DS4 controller. Afterwards I used a "normal" TP-link UB400 BT stick. I got it working but I have massive delay and ghost button presses. When I stop pushing buttons my character in game keeps running for a second.

TLDR; I'm a bit baffled what the best approach is to get a decent wireless experience using the PS DS4 controller. (I know wired is the best option off course but my dog loves eating wires)

thank you for reading and have a lovely day :)

Finally decided to play through Castlevania 3 (NES), only it's glitched out mess on MiSTer. The intro roll is missing all graphics besides the boarders, the cursor for name input is offset and garbled, and in general all the graphics are glitched, replaced with random characters and garbage. It appears as though the cartridge is loose, though there is of course no cart in the MiSTer ;).

A quick google shows that it does appear to work on MiSTer.

I own a physical copy of the game but lack the tools to extract the rom myself. The copy I'm using is from the NES2.0 smokemonster / HTGDB set.

I found a thread where Kitrinx suggests "it's not-a-bug as it stands. MiSTer relies on headers to be accurate to work" and that one needs to run the header repair utility. I've done that, making sure to use the latest NES header database by New Rising Sun, and making sure to disable TRIAL_RUN mode -- it does appear to add/repair the header, but it doesn't solve the problem. (Interestingly, the MD5 remains the same before and after parsing, which would normally tell me it is unchanged, though I'm not an expert on NES headers).

My file has an MD5 of 561999daa97a1c30c81cab5142a1d672 - Could anyone out there for whom this game works confirm their MD5 for me? Or if you know what to do, I'd love some help on this :)

I switched it out for the new Round 4 black case. First person to DM me just has to pay shipping. https://misteraddons.com/blogs/news/mister-aluminum-case-round-3